The mid-20th century stands as a pivotal era of creative exploration and avant-garde expression in watchmaking, and among the vanguards of this movement was Audemars Piguet, whose pioneering wristwatches of the 1950s and 1960s embraced a daring departure from classical round cases.
While Audemars Piguet was at the forefront of this movement, it was not alone in its exploration of unconventional geometries.
Cartier, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin also embraced the Art Deco and Brutalist aesthetics, creating iconic shaped watches that still resonate today.
Cartier’s Tank Cintrée and the intentionally warped Crash watch, Patek Philippe’s asymmetrical Ricochet and, and Vacheron Constantin’s ‘flying saucer’ pocket watch and lozenge ladies’ watch all stand as testament to this era’s creative fervour.
Inspired by the modernist aesthetics of Art Deco and Brutalist architecture, these timepieces featured bold, angular geometries that defied convention.
Audemars Piguet’s foray into unconventional forms during this period veered from 19th-century classicism, experimenting with fresh, expressive shapes that challenged traditional notions of horological design.
Trapezoids, octagons, and asymmetrical cases became the new canvas, a testament to AP’s willingness to push boundaries and explore uncharted territories.
Between 1959 and 1963, Audemars Piguet reached new heights of avant-garde expression, creating over 30 asymmetrical watch models, most of which were produced in limited runs of fewer than 10 pieces.
These eccentric timepieces featured unconventional forms like the ‘C-shaped’ case and asymmetrical rectangular dials adorned with black sector lines.
This golden age of creativity saw the manufacture embrace geometry, oversized cases and ultra-thin movements, pushing the boundaries of what was considered acceptable in watchmaking.
An openness to angular geometries was not merely an aesthetic whim for Audemars Piguet; it was a profound expression of the zeitgeist. Inspired by the Art Deco movement’s blending of fine craftsmanship and modern styles, the company’s pioneering wristwatches took on strong geometric shapes and bold lines that embodied the spirit of the era.
As the 1960s dawned, the manufacture’s designs evolved further, drawing inspiration from the raw, sculptural forms of the Brutalist movement, with angular shapes devoid of ornamentation.
In embracing these architectural movements focused on simple, bold forms, Audemars Piguet and its contemporaries produced pioneering, avant-garde watches that challenged the conventions of their time.
These mid-century explorations not only laid the foundations for future iconic designs but also cemented the watchmakers’ reputations as visionary trendsetters, unafraid to push the envelope on what was possible in the realm of horology.
Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 Selfwinding
In celebration of this time, Audemars Piguet has revisited its archives and, on May 31, unveiled the second of its tribute pieces, the [Re]Master02 Selfwinding.
Following in the footsteps of 2020’s more traditional-looking [Re]Master01, which was inspired by a 1943 chronograph, the [RE]Master02 and the piece that inspired it – the Ref. 5159BA – are quirkier in their outlook.
In both of these imposing, architectural pieces – [Re]Master02 and Ref. 5159BA – the watch head is asymmetrical and elongated at 3 o’clock.
The Ref. 5159BA featured a 27.5mm yellow-gold case and was produced in only seven examples – one of which is on display today at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus. The new watch is in a limited edition of 250 pieces, and comes in a 41mm case that feels blockier and more industrial than its predecessor.
Forged from Audemars Piguet’s recently developed, proprietary Sand gold alloy, the case colour of the [Re]Master02 sits between white and pink gold and changes in tone in different light conditions.
The segmented PVD’d ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ dial, divided into 12 distinct sections that are separated by Sand gold partitions, is finished with linear satin brushing that reveals itself in shades ranging from deep purple through to cornflower, again depending on light and wrist angle. The Sand gold dividers replace more traditional hour markers.
As the rectangular form is highlighted by crisp edges and integrated lugs, the casing also conforms to the inclined 15.8° bevelled sapphire crystal – an element that underwent two years of meticulous research and development to guarantee an acceptable level of water resistance.
The watch is powered by the Calibre 7129 self-winding extra-thin hour and minute movement, an adaptation of 2023’s Calibre 7121, which was a full five years in development.
Here there is no seconds hand or date, keeping the dial clear and staying in line with the austere post-War aesthetic of the original.
Showcasing exquisite embellishments visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, the movement boasts a bespoke 22-carat gold oscillating weight in a Sand gold hue that complements the case and dial details.
For visual cohesion, the watch is paired with a contrasting blue alligator leather strap featuring a matte finish that amplifies the interplay of light.
Announcing her first [Re]Master launch since taking the helm at Audemars Piguet, CEO Ilaria Resta, says of the reimagined editions: “Audemars Piguet has always been attached to its past while looking to the future. The [Re]Master collection perfectly embodies this spirit and pays tribute to our long watchmaking tradition, marked by timepieces that are emblematic of their era, reinterpreted today using the most advanced technologies and a resolutely contemporary approach.”
Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02, £41,000, audemarspiguet.com
